Saturday, May 14, 2016

Rome & Vatican

The B & B where we are staying in Rome arranged for a driver to pick us up. So much better than hassling with 2 bus rides to train station & then a taxi from train station to the B & B. Where we are staying is a few blocks from the Vatican. Thursday afternoon we first had pizza for lunch and then took the Hop on Hop off bus for an overview tour of Rome & walked around Castel Sant Angelo. Pope Gregory the Great had a vision of the Archangel Michael as he led a procession across the bridge leading to the fortress, praying for the end of the plague. There is a corridor that links the Castel to the Vatican Palace.

We had reservations for an in depth tour of the Vatican for Friday morning. It was amazing the difference between this tour guide (for 20 people) & the one we had the last time for 4! We saw so much more of the Vatican Museum. Included in our tour was the Scala del Bramante.. It is a ramp originally designed for donkeys so they wouldn't have to climb stairs. The views from the top of Rome are wonderful. The Sistine Chapel is inspiring but aggravating! They tell people not to talk or take pictures and keep repeating the announcement in different languages because of non compliance. The crowds were immense given that the this was declared a Year of Jubilee by the Pope. In Jubilee years, you enter St. Peter's Basilica through the Holy Door used only during Holy years. The Catholic faith says that this will remove your sins. The Pieta is now behind bulletproof glass since being damaged in 1972. It was created by Michelangelo in 1499 when he was 25. The 448' tall dome was also designed by Michelangelo. The "paintings" in the St. Peter's are all made of mosaics.

In the afternoon, we went to the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain. The Spanish Steps were closed for renovations. Couldn't talk Fred or Gary into throwing a coin in the fountain but it did work the last time I came! We walked back towards the river & went to a cafe' we had discovered the last time we were here! By the time we got back to the B & B, we had walked over 16 miles in a day & half!

We had decided that on Saturday we would go to the Coliseum area & walk around. The weather didn't cooperate! It poured on & off and we got drenched. We ended up going to a restaurant that the B & B owner recommended for a buffet of Italian "home cooking". Dinner tonight will probably our last gelato! It will be an early night as we have a 4:15am pickup to get to the airport for our 7am flight.

It has been a great trip! I know I have probably overused the word "amazing" but that best describes what we have seen. I have taken over 5,000 pictures...now to go through and decide which are our 100 or so favorites! I do know what is a pet peeve & that is selfie sticks!!!

Wednesday, May 11, 2016

Santorini

Santorini has an interesting geological history. It is an island formed by volcanic action in 1450 BC. The ship sailed into the caldera, a bowl shaped harbor, which is the center crater of the volcano. When the volcano erupted & created the caldera, water rushed in & caused a tsunami that killed all the inhabitants. The caldera is 32 square miles and about 300-400 meters deep.

There are black pebble beaches & cliffs but also saw red/orange cliffs (iron deposits), yellow (sulfur) cliffs and "melting" looking areas. The last earthquake was in 1956. Most of the churches have domed roofs & the houses have barrel shaped roofs which are suppose to withstand earthquakes.  The houses look like they are clinging to the cliffside & ready to fall!
One interesting fact we learned was that poor people usually dug into the sides of the cliffs to build their homes since building materials were scare & expensive. They would have 2 rooms on the outside for the kitchen & bathroom. Theses structures are very expensive today because of their fantastic views of the ocean.

Our first stop was Profitis Ilias, a mountain top overlooking the island. Clouds (our guide called it humidity) rolled in right as we got to the top but we could see the views. The road going up is very narrow with a number of hairpin curves. It was "fun" when we met other vehicles!  Saw a number of vineyards. Because of the high winds we receive, they have a very differently way of growing grapes. They don't use trellises. After the harvest, they twist the vines into a basket shape & the vines grow along the ground.





We next went to Oia, probably the most photographed village in Europe. Known for churches with blue dome roofs & specular sunsets, it is supposedly haunted & home to vampires. All we saw were tourists & school children.  It was a pretty little town with narrow alleyways filled with shops & cafes.

Our last stop was a Fira. From here we would take the cable car down to catch the tender back to the ship. While we took an excursion, the normal way to get up the cliffs to Fira is to take a donkey, wall or take the cable car which can have a 2 hour wait (& one reason we took the excursion).

We had lunch at a cafe overlooking the caldera. There was a "yacht" with 4 good size boats, 3 jet skis & a helicopter. Initially we thought it might be a Coast Guard vessel. Did some research when we got back on the ship & it is a yacht you can rent.....for the small sum of 275,000€ a week. It can carry 10 passengers & has a crew of 21.

We saved a bunch of money today. Santorini was on my bucket list. Up until the last minute I wasn't sure if the Turkish "revenge" was going to keep me on board. Thankfully Imodium D did its magic & I can check this one off the list!

We had a lazy day at sea on Tuesday with calm blue seas. Only exciting part was seeing Sicily last night.

Sorrento & Pompeii

Our last port of call before this cruise ends on Thursday was Naples but we didn't spend any time there. Instead we took a bus ride down the Amalfi coast to Sorrento. On the way we learned about Mount Vesuvius & how they monitor it for any sign of pending eruption. The surrounding area are either red or green zones for evacuation. The  last eruption was in 1944, not long after the Allies liberated Naples.

'Sorrento is known for inlaid wood pieces & we first went to a workshop to see how they make it. Afterwards we went for a walk in the market alley, trying some lemonicello & lemon candies. The tour included a delicious lunch of lasagna, veal cutlet and lemon cake.

After lunch we went to Pompeii, first stopping to see how they make cameos. I now have a better appreciation for the cameo I own!

Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD burying the town in 20' of pumice & ash. Lava never reached the town. It was forgotten until being rediscovered in the late 16th century. Excavations started in 1748 & are still going on. You could spend hours here exploring. Pompeii was once a seaport which lead to some interesting buildings & artwork representing services available to sailors. One thing they did have was public toilets for men but not women! It was definitely a market town & we walked down one street filled with shops.  Sliding doors were used on the ancient storefronts. Another feature was that they had embedded white marble prices in the cobblestone  street so that moonlight would reflect & provide some light at night.

Tomorrow we disembark & head to Rome before we fly home on Sunday.

Sunday, May 8, 2016

Ephesus, Turkey

Today we were a little anxious. The Captain had sent a letter to all passengers concerning the security assessment for Turkey with the preface that Holland America will not go to a port if there is "passengers will be presented with unreasonable risk to safety & security". We decided to go ahead with our excursion. When the excursion host called for our tour group & said Ephesus & terror houses versus terrace houses, we were wondering if we made the right decision!

Our tour guide, Khan, quickly put us at ease. He was a retired professor...complete with pull down map of Turkey on the the bus! Turkey is in a very unique situation, only Muslim democracy in Middle East, neighbors with Iran, Iraq, Syria & Russia & others.  Asked if we wanted to change neighbors but also did thank the USA for its support. We also got a lecture about the similarities between Christian & Muslim beliefs.

Our first stop was the Shrine of the Virgin Mary. It is believed she spent her last days in Ephesus. In a country where 95% of its citizens are Muslim, it was amazing to us that Khan said this site is holy to Muslims as well. There is a large statue of Mary on the side of the road on the way to the chapel. There is also a wall there where people stuff prayer requests written on cotton into cracks in the wall. It was also the only place we saw a soldier with machine gun surveying the crowd.

The highlight of our visit was Ephesus, one of the seven wonders of the antiquity. There is so much there and Khan sat us down in the middle of the State Agora to give us a history lesson before we wandered to see the sights. Much of Ephesus was destroyed by a major earthquake in the 800's. The Terrace Houses were probably the first condos. They were around 3500 sq ft each & built around interior gardens. The mosaic floors  are remarkable.  They had inside plumbing with terra cotta drain pipes. They are in the process of reassembling the puzzles that were the granite walls. The Celsius Library dates back to 2nd century. Built by the Roman Council of Asia Minor, it contained over 12,000 scrolls. It is 3 stories tall with an open space in front for making speeches or reading poetry. The statutes of women represent Wisdom, Fate, Virtue & Knowledge. The Grand Theater  (2,000 BC) can seat 24,000-25,000 & has almost perfect acoustics. Paul preached here in 54 AD.

Our next stop was the ruins of the Basilica of St. John where the body of St. John use to be buried. It overlooks a mosque named after Jesus Christ.

We went to a facility for a Turkish buffet lunch. While delicious, the highlight was the entertainment. Think Russian Cossack like dancers. I don't know how their knees survive the dances they do.

Our last stop was a demonstration on silk making & carpet weaving followed by "persuasion" on rug buying. When you consider that most of theses rugs can take 2-3 years to make and last over 100 years, the prices are very reasonable but we weren't in the market. They must have unrolled 30 rugs & even did a "flying rug" demonstration. Next we had to walk the gauntlet of the Turkish Bazaar & it's friendly persistent salespeople to get back on the ship.

Mykonos

There are two islands that when I remember seeing pictures of Greece, they always stood out as where I wanted to visit one day. We visited the first one today...Mykonos. The Cyclades island towns are known for their maze of alleyways and white cubic shaped homes. They were built this way so that from the sea, the houses would be mistaken for clouds by pirates. The narrow alleyways would be so that pirates would have difficulty finding their way around the town.

Today was our prettiest day so far! It started out with 2 sunrises. We saw one and as the ship changed direction, saw another coming up behind the island. By about 9 am, there was not a cloud in the sky & it was definitely the dark blue you see in the pictures. All the churches & chapels on the island have red roofs....and there are over 1000! Most were built by families for personal use &/or thanksgiving for safe trips, celebrations, etc. One of the guidebooks describes the houses as dazzling white & they are with the sun reflecting off them. The banisters & doors are rainbow bright colors of red, blues & varying shades of green.

We just missed seeing Petros the Pelican. He had gone into a restaurant to get his lunch. Petros is the island's mascot.

At one time there were 30 windmills used for grinding corn. We saw several that still exist although none were operating today. Two other famous sights are Little Venice and Panagia Paraportiani which is made up of 5 different chapels. In Little Venice, the houses have balconies that jut out over the sea. Evidently pirates use to deliver stolen goods to the ground floor doors at night so the owners could sell the goods the next day as legitimate.

We also went to a 400 year old bakery that still bakes its bread in wood burning ovens where we tried cinnamon cookies. Also went to an outside cafe to have a light lunch of ouzo, bread, spinach phyllo pie, tomatoes, cucumbers, olives & yogurt cucumber spread.

Athens

Our first stop on Thursday was the Acropolis. What you see as you start to climb the Acropolis is the Theater of Herodes Atticus built in 161 AD & which is still used today for outdoor concerts. Much of the steps leading up the mountain are marble. It had rained earlier so the stairs were slippery! At the top, you can't miss the Parthenon....and the scaffolding & cranes surrounding for doing restoration work. The Parthenon was completed in 438 BC.  The temple was built to house a 39' statute of Athena, the patron goddess of the city. An interesting fact is that there are no straight lines but slight curves in the middle of the columns & they lean inward. There is also the a Temple of Athena Nike with some remaining statues. The views from the top are magnificent but we could see a big storm coming. We decided the prudent thing was to leave the Acropolis while it was still safe. I can't imagine what the crowds must be like in the summer!

We then had a city tour seeing the major sights including the Plaka, which is one of the oldest area.  Athens has been inhabited for 7,000 years! We also saw the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the National a Gardens & Panathinaiko Stadium (first Olympic Games held in 1896).

On Friday we had planned on going back to Athens to visit the Acropolis Museum & deliver fabric to Facebook quilting friend. A strike got in our way. A taxi on Thursday would have been 20€ but on Friday was 35€ & no guarantee of how we would get back before the ship departure time. Supposedly the Metro workers were on strike as well as other government workers so national properties were closed. Happy we got to the Acropolis on Thursday! We ended up shipping the fabric by TNT. We then visited two beautiful Greek Orthodox churches & walked around Piraeus. The first church, St. Nikolaos, had shafts of light streaming in through windows in the rotunda shining on the different frescoes & icons.

Wednesday, May 4, 2016

Navplion, Greece

The ship was tendered in the harbor & we took the lifeboats into the port. Our tour today was to see the Corinth Canal & Ancient Corinth. On the way we passed by Ancient Mycenea.

The Corinth Canal was built in the late 1800's. Today it is too narrow & shallow for big ships. It is only 8 meters deep, 8 meters wide & 4 miles long. We did see 2 sailboats using it to transit the isthmus from Ionian Sea to the Aegean Sea.

Ancient Corinth was amazing. It was occupied by Romans, Goths, a Crusaders, Ottoman Turks & Venetians. The columns were made from a solid piece of granite & probably 20' tall. It was destroyed by an earthquake in the 1850's. The flowers were beautiful....poppies & chamomile & achacia trees (Noah's ark made from this type of tree). It was special to walk where Paul walked...it makes it more real. One thing we learned that most of the ancient towns had a fortress on top of a mountain & a seaport, with the town with its agora/marketplace, athletic arena, forum, & temple in the area in between.

Our guide gave us a Greek lesson on the bus....or really what the Greek "root" word is for so  many English words.

We got back in time to walk around around Navplion & have a late lunch...gelato! We saw the Palamidi Castle & the 999 steps from the town to get there. It played a large role in the Greek independence of 1822. On the way back to the ship we also saw the Bourtzi Fortress  (built in 1471 on an island to protect the Venetians against pirates.

Navplion was named the first capital of modern Greece although the capital has since been moved to Athens. It has been under French & Italian rule in its past & finally Greek rule in 19th century.

Katakolon, Greece

We were up at the Lido restaurant getting breakfast when Gary got a surprise. His last boss before he retired is on the cruise! Now Nick is of Greek descent & we are on a cruise of Greece, but it's a small world!

Today is a Greek holiday, just declared last week. Usually May 1 is a national holiday but since Greek Orthodox Easter was Sunday, last week the Greek government decided to declare today a holiday. Originally we were supposed to go to the Ancient Olympia, site of the first modern Olympic Games & also visit the Olympic Museum. It was closed because of the holiday.

The backup plan was to attend the Magna Grecia Farms to see how they make olive oil, have a snack & see Greek dancing. They had a hail storm come through about 20 minutes before we got there. While they were worried about the possible damage from hail that was up to 1/2" in diameter, they were very gracious in welcoming us to their home. The food was delicious! Our guide was born in Greece but was only allowed to speak English as a child. She was so much fun, said she just followed ships around Greece giving tours.

They do have one problem in this area of Greece. The landfill is full & they haven't been able to develop a new one because of environment concerns. As a result, you see huge piles of garbage bags on the side of the road.

The ship was really rocking & rolling last night....the worse we have experienced. Today we learned it is because winds coming north from & south from the mountains plus it is where the Ionian, Mediterranean & Aegean sea converge. Hope tonight is better!!!!

Monday, May 2, 2016

Corfu

Corfu is an island located in the Ionian Sea. It is a mixture of the different influences of the countries that occupied it over the centuries including Roman, Byzantine, Goths, Normans, Angevin, French, Venetian and British before its unification with Greece.

Our first stop was the Achilleion Palace. It was built in 1890-91 for Empress Elizabeth of Bavarian as a retreat from the Hapsburg court. She was married to a Emperor Franz Josef. It was named for Achilles & there are 2 statutes in the garden of him. The statute she had placed in the garden was of a dying Achilles. She admired the Greek mythological figure because he  combined Greek divine beauty & valor but also tragic fate. Some interesting facts about her. She had a 16" waist, was 5'7" & only weighed 95-100 pounds. Her hair went to her ankles & she spent 2 hours every day brushing it!  She was murdered by an Italian anarchist in 1898.

The main entry room has numerous pieces of art celebrating Greek mythology  with statues of Zeus & Hera. The ceiling has a beautiful fresco representing the four seasons. Empress Elizabeth had a private Catholic chapel that has a painting of the trial of Jesus.

The Palace was sold by her daughter to the German Emperor Kaiser Wilhelm II. He added the second statute of Achilles (49' tall) in the garden made large enough do could see spear from his yacht. The palace was used as a military hospital during WWI & then as military headquarters for the Italian & German occupation forces in WWII. It was turned into a casino in 1962 & was used as the set for the James Bond movie For Your Eyes Only.

We drove back through Corfu to reach a ocean view villa where we had a delicious lunch of numerous homemade Greek dishes, wine & ouzo. The dessert was orange cake serves with honey &  Greek yogurt....that tasted like no Greek yogurt I have ever had.

Today was a lesson in 7 degrees of separation. Our table mates are from Gastonia & he graduated from Davidson. We knew a bunch of the same people in banking. At dinner, the couple was from Atlanta. They are friend's of Gary's cousins.

Sunday, May 1, 2016

Venice -Part 2

If you are looking at the photos in the iPhoto, you know by now that I love photographing architecture.

I read that Napoleon called Piazza San Marco "the most beautiful drawing room in Europe". It is definitely a mixture of Byzantine, Renaissance, Baroque & neoclassical. Next to the Basilica is Doge's Palace, built as the residence for the Venetian ruler (Duke). It has several nicknames....Wedding cake, the Table Cloth or Pink House. It is described as being Venetian Gothic, a mix of Gothic arches  with Eastern Islamic touches. It was built between 800's to the 1300's.

The Torre dell'Orologico or Clock Tower is topped by 2 African Moors or Mori "rescued" (they aren't from where) that swing giant clappers against the bell every hour. It is considered the world's first digital clock. The hours are in Roman numerals and every 5 minutes, the Arabic numbers change. The display also shows the phases of the moon & the signs of the zodiac. Supposedly when the inventors finished the clock, they were blinded so they could never build another one.

The Campanile was built in 1173 as a lighthouse. It was considered a marvel of its time. Unfortunately it collapsed in 1902 & was rebuilt, this time with an elevator instead of a ramp. This is where Galileo demonstrated his telescope to the Doge.

After walking the Plaza, we went back to the waterfront in search of an artist who we had purchased paintings from the last time we were in Venice. We found Giamberti but he was in a foul mood...thought I was trying to take pictures of his work. He got happy when he realized I was showing him pictures of what we had bought....and that we were from NC. He has paintings on display in a gallery in Asheville! We had bought the paintings last time from his son who is now in Germany. Now we aren't sure if what we bought then were his or his son's.

We took the water bus back to the hotel & then decided to get "lost". Easy to do in Venice & fun. We
finally "found" our way back to Rialto Bridge area & the fish market to have dinner. Now Fred loves fried fish a la' Calabash but his fried fish dinner in Venice! While there was shrimp & calamari, the only "fish" was a whole sardine & there was also crayfish!

Murano & Burano

 In 1291 all of Venice's glass furnaces were moved to Murano. While the primary reason was to control risk of fire, it was also to protect the secrets of glassblowing. It was fun to visit the different shops to see all the different types of glass articles & jewelry. Thank goodness we have patient husbands!

One negative about Europe is the lack of restrooms, free or for a fee! We ended up stopping at a cafe & our pit stop cost about 20€ for 4 8oz cokes & a basket of potato chips!

Our next stop was Burano. Best description would be a Caribbean island with brightly colored houses...bright purple, fuschia, yellow, coral, etc. The men that live here are fishermen. Historically the women were lace makers. Today there is only one woman, age 80, that makes lace. Today the island probably survives on the tourist trade! 

Later this evening we took one last ride on the Grand Canal at twilight to enjoy the magic that is Venice. 

Cruise Stats & train ride

On the first cruise we went 5,256 nautical miles (1 nautical mile =1.15 land miles). We walked 66.5 miles & amazingly 667 flights of stairs....& that only counts going up the steps, not down.

We had some great entertainment on board. Some  of our favorites were Tenors of Rock, Tony Tilman & Paul a Stone. Our cruise director, Rich Spacey, also providing some great laughs. Everyday he wore a pair of very unique socks. If you do a search of YouTube, there is a video of a dance routine he does. It is a 5 minute interpretation of all the different dance moves he had observed during the preceding 16 days.

The train trip to Florence was an adventure! We had arranged a transfer to the train station....but they kept sending up to the wrong bus! We finally got to the train station....about 3 hours early for our reservation. It was very cold & windy but sunny. The fun part of the Civitachecchia is that you have to carry your luggage down & then back up to get to the right train track. I had bought our tickets in advance. On the document, it said you needed to go to ticket window or machine to exchange. Went to window first & he said I didn't need to do anything. After rereading, tried the machine & no luck so double checked at window & again ok. We were ok on first trip. No such luck on second trip. Nasty conductor & another 53€ later we were ok. It didn't matter that we had already paid. The student across the aisle from us was apologetic & embarrassed & said "this is Italy". He made a nasty comment about us that Susan heard since she was sitting several aisles ahead. Sad  & ironic because it was  a national holiday, Liberation Day, to celebration end of WWII which wouldn't have happened with the help of the Americans. Overall, most people we met have been very gracious & helpful & we decided not to let the conductor mar our trip!